French Laundry

Haute Cuisine ... Off (Yes!) Columbus

UWS 101: The nondescript main room at Dovetail resembles a faculty dining hall.
James Hamilton
UWS 101: The nondescript main room at Dovetail resembles a faculty dining hall.

“Your amuse bouches,” the waiter said, setting down a plate of white plastic spoons whose filling glistened like a display of jewels. “Vodka gelée with sour cream, salmon roe, fried capers and chives.”

So much going on in one tiny mouthful! Our minds were racing. Yet each element of this fleeting palate teaser was precise and distinct.

The spoons were served along with confit shrimp pinned to the end of long wooden skewers, and a crusty, moist corn bread made with white cheddar. We hadn’t even looked at the menu yet.  read more »